Hello Everyone,
Before I start with my expedition, I would like to pay homage to 100 plus people who died in Ladakh recently, as a result of cloud burst. Ladakh is a very dry place, infact a cold desert and houses there are made according to the weather. They are no way capable of handling heavy rains. Feeling very sad for the loss of lives. I pay my homage to those pure souls.
Journey Begins-
17th July 2010- New Delhi, India- 2:15am- My flight landed on 'Dilwalo ka shaher- Dilli'. I hoped to see the new swanky T3 but sadly, it was not officially open. Sadly, our flight taxied to T2. After clearing all the formalities, I was out of airport. I was very happy to see my buddy Sanjeev Bansal; he came to receive me from the airport. At 10:30 am my expedition team mates reached New Delhi and I collected my rucksack from them. The whole packing needed to be completed in few hours. I packed everything but forgot my cap, which I realized in Manali. 6:30 pm in the evening and we are off to Manali on 'Himachal Pradesh State Tourism bus'.
Suggestions- For traveling from New Delhi to Manali try to book Himachal Tourism Volvo buses. They are punctual and don’t stop unnecessarily in between. The ticket will be around Rs1200 per person. The total journey time is around 15 hours.
18th July 2010- 9am- We reached Manali. A group of friends who reached Manali a day earlier had already booked the vehicle for Leh. After lunch, at around 2pm we left for Leh. Tonight’s destination- Jispa. A small village 140kms from Manali. Leh is 500kms from Manali and it takes around 17hours under normal conditions to reach there. The route is only opened for 4 months, mid of June till mid of October. Manali-Leh road is one of dangerous roads in the world. The reasons are numerous- sudden mudslides, sudden flow of water, heavy snowfall, etc. The problem gets worse because, of very narrow roads at certain points and high altitude. Human inhabitation for most part of the route is nil.. It might take hours or even days to get help. The route although dangerous, takes you through the most beautiful places in planet. To reach Leh, we have to cross 5 passes-
1. Rohtang Pass -4054 mts (13300 ft)
2. Baralacha La - 4950 mts (16240 ft)
3. Nakee La - 4740 mts (15547 ft)
4. Lachulung La - 5070 mts (16616 ft)
5. Talang La - 5300 mts (17300 ft)
Today, we will be crossing only one, 'Rohtang Pass'. We encountered bad weather while reaching there. It was too cloudy. After we crossed it, weather cleared and we witnessed some good scenes. By the time, we reached Jispa, it was already evening. Jispa has a huge camping ground and a small stream runs besides it, a perfect place to spend the night.
Suggestion-Its always advisable to do a break journey to Leh, otherwise body may not cope up with the altitude. The cost of reaching Leh, varies from Rs1500-Rs4000 per person, depending upon the season and the number of people traveling.
19th July 2010- Jispa- 7am - We made an early start from Jispa, with a hope of reaching Leh before Sun Set. We planned for our breakfast at Zing zing bar, a place below 'Baralacha la'(refer to the list of passes). Barely an hour into our journey, we see a queue of trucks standing. We got off from the vehicle and found out...... a whole section of road has been washed away by a big stream. After being a mute spectator for some time, all the stranded people got down and started mending the road. We threw stones over stones and after 1 hour of hard work, we were able to create a path for vehicles to move. Test run- A daring bus drive took the risk and his vehicle passed.....Hurray!!! (see the video). Happily we got into the vehicle and passed the danger zone. Few minutes of drive and we faced a similar situation. This time, not only the water was flowing with great speed, it was also flowing in stones along with it. To create a path through that was beyond the caliber of human hand. After waiting for some time, we saw BRO (Border Roads Organisation) personnel and equipments coming in. They worked hard to control the nature's fury but failed ... After 3 hours of struggle, they finally got the better of it. When we reached Zinzing bar, it was already 1pm and 5 hours has been lost. Forget breakfast, we had our lunch and prayed to God for smoother journey ahead.
Baralacha la was full of snow as usual. Once we crossed it, the landscape changed. One can see the more rugged and massive face of Himalayas. We smoothly crossed other two passes, Nakeela and Lachulung la respectively. When we reached Pang, it was already 6pm. Pang is an amazing place, all the mountains are of golden colour. It is situated just below the Ladakh highland. We had our evening snacks there and off we went to Ladakh. Within minutes, we reached Ladakh Highlands- A heaven up in the mountains... It is a huge plain land, must be hundreds of square kms at a height of nearly 14000ft. Truly marvelous!!! Till the time we started our ascend to Talang La, it was a straight drive. We witnessed an amazing sight there. I named it as, ‘Light of Buddha’. In a distant valley, Sunrays were falling in such a way, that it appeared as if light is coming out of the valley. I feel fortunate to have witnessed that thing.
By the time we reached Talang la, it was dark. From Talang la, landscape again changes, it's a steep downhill drive to the Indus Valley. To reach Leh we will descend close to 6000ft. We reached the capital of Ladakh, Leh at 11pm.. Kudos to me!! I have maintained the record to reaching Leh close to midnight. Last time it was 11:30pm.. Got into hotel, which was already booked by out expedition planner- 'Mero Expedition' and slept as if there is no tomorrow.
20th July- Leh, Ladakh- We woke up early as we had lot of things to do. Tangyas ji (Mero Expedition owner) came to our hotel and we quickly discussed the plan. After having our breakfast, we reached his office and selected our mountaineering gears. Repacked everything, had our lunch and we were all set. Tangyas ji booked a cab for us and we loaded all our bags on it. In an hour time, we were in our camping ground in Stok Village. Stok is around 21 kms from Leh and the whole Leh town can be seen from there. We pitched our tent and got ready for the big challenge starting next day. During the sunset, we witnessed amazing display of light in the opposite mountain ranges. Cameras out - 'Click click click'.
21st July- Stok Village- 7am- Lovely morning. Real test begins today. Target for today is Mankhambro. Our guide arrived and after a good breakfast, we started. We had to follow a stream. The initial part was ok but then the game began. With heavy load on our back, we were climbing on the rugged mountains, sometimes using all the four limbs. After some time we reached a junction. One path took right and the other one took left. The former goes to 'Markha Valley', we took the latter one. It was very important that we don't take any path turning left and we should also not go extreme right, otherwise we could get stuck in the river. At around 11:15 am, I reached Mankhambro. Team members followed. In the evening, one of the team member started having breathing trouble. We gave him some medicine to normalise the breathing. We pitched our tent and in the evening went to sleep.
22nd July- Mankhambro- 6am- Bad news. The team member health hasn't improved and he has decided to retreat. Team size reduced to 4 people. We marched towards our next target, the base camp. Although the distance is not that great but at that height, it was getting difficult to walk for long stretch. Our march was halted due to a huge stream. We popped over from stone to stone and somehow managed to cross it. When I reached base camp, I was totally exhausted. The key was to stay awake. Falling asleep may result to altitude sickness. I had some hot coffee. When everyone arrived, we pitched the tent. There were few other tents in base camp. After sometime, we saw some people started coming down in groups. My guide told me they are coming from the summit. /few people rejoiced, as they were successful, while others quietly retired into their tents. I got tensed. I said to myself, 'God only knows what will be my fate'.
The problem with the final push to summit is that the journey needs to start at around 12am. Base camp is at 1600ft. 12am in night is horrible. On top of that one will have to climb and traverse the glacier with torch light. It’s difficult.
We held a team meeting and one of the member said that, he is not going to attempt for summit. The other said, 'let's wait for a day and have rest, we should attempt summit tomorrow night'. Clearly, the morale was low. I had to take an important decision, whether to go for it or not. I decided to go for it that night. Few things helped me take the decision were, at this altitude weather is highly unpredictable and also the team morale is very low, its highly likely that tomorrow, the mission may be called off. Also, I don’t have time in my hand. I had to be in office by 28th July. If tomorrow something happens, Stok Kangri may be lost forever. The last team member said, he will get up at 12 and then decide. We all retired to our tents early. It rained and snowed in the night.
Suggestion- There is a golden rule in mountains, that is, 'Avoid sleeping at the highest point in that day'. I ignored it and paid a heavily later. I had to attempt the peak that night because of the time crunch. Please reserve ample amount of time, when visiting Ladakh.
23rd July 2010- Base Camp- 12:30am. I called our guide, Arbiji. He got up. I looked up, the sky was still not clear. I called my team member and he declined to go. It was a bad start. My confidence was shaken and enthusiasm went down. Still I said to myself, I will do it. So along with my guide, I started off. Head torches flashed in the dark night. We slowly started to climb and after the crossing the first ridge ((refer to my video of base camp), we entered in the world of ice. It was a white world. With moonlight reflecting on snow, the whole place was looking as if covered in Silver. There was no trail to follow. Ice-Axe out, every step was taken with extreme caution. It was very difficult to maintain the balance. Very soon we fixed the crampon on shoes. Now it was better. I don't how long we walked but when we reached the ice-wall , it was almost morning.
Our immediate job was to climb the ice-wall and reach the platform below the ridge. We started our climb to ridge, the pace was slow but I tried to be steady. Ice- Axe is an important tool. By the time we reached the base of ridge, it was already 8:30am. Somehow I managed to climb up to the ridge. I was very exhausted and my body was telling me to go down. I seriously thought of quitting. I calmed down myself. I took some rest and looked down at the steep ice-wall. I said myself, ' I haven't climbed it to quit'. From the ridge I could see that there are three humps and the third one was the peak. The ridge was very narrow and if the balance is disturbed, you can fall below on either side. There was one more problem, the ridge was full of slate type of stones, and with crampons on it was becoming very difficult to cross them. When I reached the first hump, I was amazed by what I saw. I could see most of the peaks in the Ladakh and POK (Pakistan Occupied Kashmir). It was so beautiful. My morale was boosted-' nothing short of summit', I said to myself. I persisted with my worn out body. I was taking huge breath after every two steps.
10:30am............I -Joedha Ghosh made it to the summit. Yess.... I did it.... I was at a height of 6100mts, more than 20200ft. I felt like a king at the top of Stok Kangri. Most of the mountains were below me. I looked up and thanked the almighty. To be honest, it was the greatest moment in my life. My dream finally came thru. I was satisfied with my efforts. I had a great sense of accomplishment.
Wait!!!! ‘Picture abhi baaki hai mere dost.’ The real pain will start now...
The wind was blowing hard and the weather was deteorating. Guide advised to climb down fast. I looked down and got scared instantly, 'Is this what I climbed up, how am I going to go down?' Holding my Ice-Axe I began my descend. I looked at the prayer flags at the summit and bid them good bye. We navigated through the ridge somehow but how am I going to cross the steep ice-wall. My eyes got wide and although my body was tired but my concentration was at maximum. All the mountaineering skills I learned in my Basic Mountaineering Course got tested. After crossing the steep ice wall I just lost it. My body just gave up. I was sensing that I was losing grip on myself. I was just walking down. I could see guide moving further away but I was not trying to keep up with him. The snow has become very soft and every now and then my whole leg was going into it. At times I was going waist deep. It was very frustrating. Then I made a very wrong move. I decided to skid the rest of the slope. So I started skidding in snow, with my back down, using the Ice-Axe to control my speed. What I didn't realise that ice have already got into my boots and with skidding like this I risk more ice inside my boot, my jacket and pants. I skid for 15 minutes, initially it was fun but latter I started feeling cold. There was ice all over my body. Now I was facing the risk of 'Hypothermia and Frost bite'. I got up and tried to walk fast but the soft snow just got better of me. I also realised, that I was still breathing heavily. Things go onto my nerves. I had to reach base camp as soon as possible. After walking for few minutes, I realised, I was not feeling my right foot. I couldn't move my fingers in my right leg. I really thought, it was 'Frost-bite'. I just tried to run but the exhaustion was too much. I hurriedly open my right shoes and threw away my socks. I rubbed my foot frantically. Calmed myself and removed all the ice from the boot and drained the water. I put on a new pair of socks and put on the wet boots again. After that I was constantly moving my leg fingers. I had very less water, almost no food and all my energy was drained out. I just wanted to reach base camp somehow. When I finally crossed the ice-field I breathed a sigh of relief. I took a long rest, may be 10 minutes. Then I looked on the other side. The whole of Ladakh range was visible. Clear weather at these grim situations is a great morale booster. I took the last downturn and hurray, I could see the base camp. I said to myself, 'God saved me today'. When I reached base camp I saw my team members eagerly waiting for me. People congratulated me and slowly I could regain my sense. A hot coffee was the perfect thing at that time.
Learning- I should have waited for a day and acclimatized myself. Then I should have attempted for summit. Also, it is equally important put in same effort while climbing down as we do in climbing up.
I would like to thank all of you for your encouragement and support. Special thanks to my team members, without whom this wouldn't have been possible. Lastly, my thanks prayers to Lord Shiva and Lord Buddha, without their blessings, I wouldn't have been at the top of Stok Kangri.
Now, after visiting twice to Ladakh, the next natural target should be……………………. Yes..Tibet, especially sacred Mount Kailash and Lake Manas Sarovar.. I have to go there and I cannot comment on my return. People eager to join me for my next exploration, please contact me..
Brands endorsement-
1. Waterproof shoes with 'Vibram' soles, helps a lot during trekking. Vibram soles provide excellent grip on slippery surfaces and on slopes. Highly recommended….
2. Adidas winter wears are good. They usually keep you warm, till the time you put snow inside them J
Travel Tips- - It’s essential that Indian nationals carry a photo ID card along with them in Ladakh. Please make your inner line permits in Leh, it's needed if you venture out of the town. It is said that in high altitude one feel hungrier but in Ladakh you will feel very very very very..hungry. So please do the rationing properly if you plan for any trek.
Leh has changed a lot in the last two years. For foodies too it has become a paradise. Due to heavy influx of foreigners, you can get food of all the parts of world. Korean, Japanese, Italian, French, you name it, you have it. Last Day in Leh, I ate like a monster. It was food treat at its best and I loved it. Please spend a day in leh, just exploring it. Hotels in Leh are quite cheap compared to other hill stations. One can get Double bed room from Rs500 also during peak season. If anyone wants to explore Ladakh and needs more information, please don’t hesitate to mail me at- joedha@gmail.com.
Bye Bye..
- Jispa to Leh - http://www.youtube.com/
watch?v=mhFeU_5zE6s - Camp fire at Jispa- http://www.youtube.com/
watch?v=ld9fiRhQPBY - Roads Washed away - http://www.youtube.com/
watch?v=ipU8xpi9PSU - Dangerous Roads- http://www.youtube.com/
watch?v=86kwPDbsxf4 - Road- http://www.youtube.com/
watch?v=FyciuwBugG8 - Mankhambro - http://www.youtube.com/
watch?v=01WcTaRvVzs - Base Camp -http://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=szzpws4zCUI - Stok Kangri Top- An exhausted Joedha- http://www.youtube.
com/watch?v=jaf8geL0TVI - Ladakh- My Love- http://www.youtube.com/
watch?v=ujr1Ek3nk7Y
